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GrossglocknerGPS Severozápadním hřebenem

Vlastní popis

Překlad z průvodce End/Peterka

Vlastní popis

The walking part of the ascent is identical to Stüdlgrat. From StüdlhütteGPS we ascend steeply towards glacier Teischnitzkees. The gradient relieves after some time and we can see the whole ascent route and Northwest ridge. We go as high as possible and than step on the glacier (from StüdlhütteGPS 1 km, 25 minutes, 3040 m). Protection with the rope due to crevasses may be necessary. We continue along LuisenkopfGPS and LuisenscharteGPS to the branch to the Stüdlgrat (2,2 km, 1:15, 3300 m). We still go parallel to the Stüdlgrat and turn to the beginning of the Y-gully as late (=high) as possible. This way we avoid the highest crevasse on Teischnitzkees. The last 200 meters below BergschrundGPS is pure travers, without rising. After short steeper slope we reach the BergschrundGPS (2,6 km, 1:45, 3350 m, Image 2, Image 3, Image 5, Photo 4).

 

The BergschrundGPS may be difficult to cross. It will be most likely possible in the point where it is sealed with snow falling from I or Y-gully (Image 3, Photo 3). Y-gully, officially called South gully (Südrinne), is firn of 40-50 deg, lenght 250 metres. The beginning - "neck" (Image 3) - is said to be sometimes without snow. Than it is less convenient to cross (protection...). Above the neck we have option to continue vertically to the Untere GlocknerscharteGPS (UGS) or bypass Lower NW Ridge over right arm of the Y-gully (our previous experience, Photo 12). In our experience (6 a.m., end of August) the firn was hard. We did not use protection but it was close to our limit (one ice-axe, summer boots, old crampoons,..). Steeper parts of the slope are around the neck and than below the UGSGPS - there was also ice. Direct to the right indentation of USGGPS (Image 3) because there is the first bolt. We were here the day before during the day and saw several stones spontaneously falling in the Y-gully (helmet). Time from StuedlhutteGPS - 2:30, elevation 3598 m. Now it is possible to take off crampoons and rearm to rock climbing.

 

The beginning is one easy pitch (50 m rope) to small tower with 10 m rappelling ("10-m tower", Photo 10). There was no bolt but fixed sling with side protection with piton for rappelling. Belay site on sling after rappelling. Than there is one easy pitch to the one of key spots of the NW Ridge. It is five meter-high vertical wall (IV-, "5-m wall"). There is bolt at its bottom. Both left and right edges of the wall are vertical at the beginning and than they slightly convergate. We climbed 2 meter in the middle (friend) and than to the right edge. Next bolt immediately after the spot (Photo 9).

 

Both 10-m tower and 5-m wall is possible to see from a distance as shapes in the ridge (Photo 4).

 

Now about 2 pitches to the base of TeufelshornGPS (III-, III+). Somewhere in the middle is short wall ("3-m wall" with bolt and one difficult step (Photo 9). The ridge is than very exposed. There is bolt about 10 meters prior to TeufelshornGPS and than another one directly above the indentation prior TeufelshornGPS. Fixed sling with knotes facilitates descend to the indentation (4 m). Sling is however short and one barn door-like step is required. There is bolt in the indentation.

 

Variations

 

1. over the summit of TeufelshornGPS

 

There are two pitches to the summit of TeufelshornGPS. The guide recommends to keep to the right where rock is more solid and in upper part to go through the one or two chimneys. Chimney and ribs on the west side are running from the right down to the left up. The first pitch is easy - I climbed it almost without protection. Belay site in slings. I missed however one bolt - our friends used it (it was on balcony with snow). The second pitch is more difficult. It ends on the west summit of TeufelshornGPS - we had there belay site in slings. The rappelling is on the east summit - 8 meters of easy but very exposed climbing between summits (5:30 from StüdlhütteGPS, 3680 m).

 

Rappelling consists of bolt and steel rope with carabiner. After 20 meters of overhanged rappelling is belay site with two bolt, one of them has carabiner. With longer rope it is possible to continue to rappell. About 10-15 meters from the base of the TeufelshornGPS is another bolt. It requires about 45 m of rope (we had 2x50 m twins). We pulled down the rope without problem (Photo 11, Photo 12).

 

2. travers of TeufelshornGPS from the south. Over multiple ribs. (End-Peterka)

 

End of variations

 

We continued on the boundary between rock and snow to the saddle between TeufelshornGPS and GlocknerhornGPS. (Remark - this is snow of the right arm of the Y-gully and it is possible to return from here to Teischnitzkees - proven, Image 3, Photo 12).

 

We did not stop in the saddle (no bolt) and continued to the summit of GlocknerhornGPS. GlocknerhornGPS has almost the same height as TeufelshornGPS and its west face has the same structure - ribs and chimneys running upwards left. The first pitch was easy - without protection. Bolt and belay site on the balcony with snow in the chimney. Than we saw piton higher left in our chimney and climbed that direction. It might have been mistake. The piton was loose. It was however not possible to pull it out and maybe it was OK for tension downwards. Than follows more easy climbing to the summit. This second pitch has about 15-20 meters, belay site in slings (6:30 from StüdlhütteGPS, 3783 m). The summit of GlocknerhornGPS is ideal rest place.

 

(Note - it is also possible to travers GlocknerhornGPS from the south but it is not recommended for bigger difficulties - End-Peterka.)

 

There is about 40 meter walking down to the snow of Grögerschneide. In Grögerschneide we walk easily 100 m along the angular horizontal firn ridge (visible from satellite, Image 3, Image 4, Photo 12). The last 30 meters of firn are steep. In fact, it is right side of the small rib connecting to the NW ridge from north (Image 3, Image 4, Image 5, Photo 13). We had belay site at the big stone laying on the scree next to the firn edge. The climbing was unpleasant - hard firn and big exposition. We turned right to the rock before the end of snow. Self-made belay site.

 

From now it is only rock climbing to the summit of GrossglocknerGPS. The direct distance from here to the summit is only 180 meters. Now we made two full-rope pitches over exposed small towers (Photo 14) and than rising ridge (Photo 16). Both belay sites were self-made. Now the ridge starts to climb up steeply. There was bolt down in the indentation which we therefore did not use. Another bolt was high up below the big step on the ridge. It was possible to reach it using full lenght of 50 m.

 

This is another key site of the ascent - 10-meters wall with classification of IV-. The wall is in fact the right flank of our ridge and maneuver is to traverse to the right and than climb up and left back to  the ridge. Again more slowly :-) - there is another bolt in the same level but 5 meters to the right. It is possible to reach it easily over balcony. There is crack between these two bolts - running up and left back to the edge of the ridge. The crack is good for sidepull with the right hand. The worst are the first steps. Another bolt is above the wall - suitable for belaying, not visible from below (Photo 15, Photo 18).

 

(Note - End-Peterka mention more easy variation - after second bolt to continue traversing  to the right and than to climb up along the another crack - III. This did not look tempting - we did not see steps which should be made and wall here has big exposition because it is beyond the end of balcony.)

 

Another 10-15 meters are still steep but easy and the rest is only easy. It may be possible to reach the summit in one pitch (9:00 hrs from StüdlhütteGPS, 3798 m).

Překlad z průvodce End/Peterka

Průvodce: Will End/Hubert Peterka, Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe, 9. Auflage 1995

 

Co nejpřesnější překlad pasáží týkajících se Severozápadního hřebene (originál námi ale často nepochopený):

 

str. 223 VII. Přechody a pojmenovaná sedla v hřebeni

 

601 Untere Glocknerscharte, 3598 m

 

Ostrý zářez mezi Glocknerwand, 3721 m a Teufelshornem, 3677 m, a dále Grossglocknerem 3798 m. Výrazná špičatá věž ji dělí na dva zářezy. Na severovýchod je firnový svah k Inneren Glocknerkar, na jih vede firnový žlab na Teischnitzkees. Není to přechod!

 

První výstup a přechod ze severu na jih: Facilides a Kerer, Groder, 26.8.1875 První přechod hřebenem - od Glocknerwand: Kuffner, Ranggetiner, Rubesoier, 8.8.1884. První přechod z jihu na sever: Drasch, Huter, Unterberger, srpen 1887.

 

606 Jižní žlab - pravý výstup (Suedrinne - Rechter Anstieg) Poprvé v sestupu po prvním výstupu na UGS, Facilides, viz výše. Firnový žlab 45 st., 250 výškových metrů, 1 hodina. Celkem 800 výškových metrů a 2,5 hod (od Stuedl Huette). Foto na str. 331.

 

607 Jižní žlab - levý výstup Poprvé Gröger 18.7.1879, druhý výstup do UGS. Výstup do levého zářezu sedla (v průvodci překlep - napsali pravého).

 

str. 307 1029 SZ hřeben - přehled Hřeben je horizontálním firnovým ramenem (Grögerovým zářezem 3660 m) rozdělen na Dolní a Horní. Dolní hřeben začíná v UGS a jde přes Teufelshorn a Glocknerhorn 3680. Zde začíná Horní SZ hřeben.

 

Od Teischnitzkess jde k SZ hřebenu široký žlab. Ten je rozdělen žebrem: Pravý jižný žlab (Gröger-Rinne) jde do Gröger-Schneide a lze se jím dostat pod Horní SZ hřeben. Levý jižní žlab (Drasch-rinne) sahá k Teufelshornu a tím k Dolnímu SZ hřebeni.

 

1029a Pravý jižní žlab (Gröger-Rinne) Poprvé Gröger 29.8.1879. 35 st, 320 výškových metrů. Od Stuedlhuette 860 výškových metrů, 2,5 hod. Foto str. 331. Od S-huette po R606 do spádnice Grögerschneide. Přes odtrhovku do pravého firnového žlabu. Výstup vlevo v úhlu (poblíž Glocknerhornu) na Gröger-Schneide.

 

1029b Levý jižní žlab (Drasch-Rinne) Poprvé Drasch 27.9.1887. 35 st, 300 výškových metrů. Od Stuedlhuette 840 m, 2,5 hod. Nástup vlevo od 1029a, směr k přechodu R1030 na úpatí Teufelshornu.

 

1033 Oberer Nordwestgrat

140 výškových metrů, 1,5 hod

 

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